The Complete Book of Herbal Teas

Name: The Complete Book of Herbal Teas
Ingredients: 1 A Brief History Of Tea; 2 Guide To Cultivating Herbs; 3 Planning Your Garden Outdoors And In; 4 Drying Freezing And Storing; 5 How To Brew Herbal Teas; 6 Creating Tea Blends; 7 Compendium Of Herbs

A home-style The Complete Book of Herbal Teas made with A Brief History Of Tea, Guide To Cultivating Herbs, Planning Your Garden Outdoors And In, Drying Freezing And Storing, and How To Brew Herbal Teas. Add it to your meal plan and shop the whole list in one go.

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Ingredients

Method (preview)

1
Growing Herbal Teas: Reference Chart [Pictures p208, p209, p210, p211]
2
Metric- Imperial Equivalents [Picture p216]
3
Sources for Seeds, Plants and Equipment (Removed)
4
Indeed, the decision to serve Thea sinensis teas rather than herbal teas has often been made more for reasons of prestige than for taste.
5
When Ta'Mo' awakened-perhaps a day, perhaps a year later-he was so angry with himself for neglecting his meditation that he took out a knife, sliced off both his eyelids, and threw them to the ground.
6
The discovery of Thea sinensis tea
7
On a trip to a neighboring province, the emperor's servants started a fire to boil water for him.
8
Thus began a tea-drinking custom that has persisted to this day.
9
Although the cultivation of tea began in China, it gradually spread to Japan and the rest of the Far East.
10
Early recorded uses of herbal teas
11
Wealthy Romans took their herb culture seriously.
12
The mild Italian winters still were not quite warm enough to keep some tender herbs from being destroyed, so plants were placed under thin sheets of mica (plate glass had not been developed yet) to protect them from the chill.
13
Herbal teas in the New World
14
While the tea of Thea sinensis remained the favorite herbal beverage, those who couldn't afford it continued to make teas from other, more easily accessible herbs.
15
Chamomile, peppermint, and elderflower teas were especially popular.
16
After the Boston Tea Party, patriotic ladies banished imported teatermed "the baneful herb" by the clergyman and educator John Andrews-from their tables and turned to domestically grown herbal teas.
17
After the Revolutionary War, the Americans imported tea directly from China, and Thea sinensis became easily attainable and inexpensive once again.
18
Recent growth in the herbal tea market
19
Controlling quality by growing your own herbs
20
Extras can be used in potpourris, sachets, herbal butters, and vinegars, or to make decorative, long-lasting floral displays that scent your home long after the growing season is past.
21
If it goes in easily with little or no effort, you're lucky-you probably already have ideal soil for your herbal teas.
22
If it scrapes or won't go in all the way, you'll have to do some work.
23
Usually, this will mean adding conditioners.
24
If you have clay soil, you'll want to add even more of these conditioners to get an herb planting bed that will provide good drainage and enough friability so the root systems will remain moist (but not soggy) and will spread easily.
25
Press this lump gently with a finger of your other hand.
26
If it holds together, the ground is too wet to work.
27
If it crumbles, it's time to roll up your sleeves and start digging.
28
Be sure to distribute soil conditioners evenly throughout the mixture.
29
Then spread the organic materials over the surface and systematically dig them in.
30
After you've worked conditioners into the planting area, you should check the pH factor-acidity or alkalinity-of the soil.
31
If you find the planting mixture is too acid, mix 5 pounds of agricultural limestone into each 100 square feet of planting area to raise the pH by 1/2 to 1 point.
32
If the mixture is too alkaline, add 3 pounds of iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate to each 100 square feet to lower the pH by 1/2 to 1 point.
33
If you're planting seeds outdoors, plan carefully where you want to put them (see chapter 3 for full information on planning your garden).
34
Also, you can thin the herbs in place; and you won't risk loss from later transplanting.
35
Make sure all danger of frost is past and that the soil has begun to warm up.
36
If there is a short growing season in your area, slow-growing plants with long germination periods should be planted earlier, indoors or in a cold frame, then transplanted into the garden when they're established.
37
Otherwise, they won't yield a crop of any significance before the end of the growing season.
38
Generally, it's believed annual herbs (which live one season only) should be planted during the first � or second � lunar phase.
39
If winters aren't too severe in your climate, you can plant dill, borage, and other slow-germinating seeds outdoors in the fall.
40
They'll come up nicely in spring.
41
Fall planting should be done before autumn frosts begin, but late enough in the season so that seedlings won't emerge before winter only to be killed when cold weather arrives.
42
Check seed packets for average germination periods and for instructions on planting in your climate.
43
Before you plant, make shallow scratch lines with a hoe or trowel to guide you when sowing.
44
Place seeds in the furrows, and cover them lightly with soil.
45
Seed packets usually spell out how deep seeds should be placed-this varies from herb to herb.
46
If planting depth isn't spelled out, a good rule of thumb is to plant seeds to a depth of two to three times the diameter of the seed.
47
Make sure the soil covering the seeds isn't lumpy or heavy.
48
After you've covered the seeds, firm the planting area with your hand or a board.
49
If the surface has dried out, moisten it lightly with a fine spray of water, being careful not to uncover or dislodge the seeds.
50
Once they've cooled, fill your planting containers with a good sterile potting mix.
51
One commercial herb gardener who grows thousands of plants each year asserts that gardeners who make their own herbal planting mix will get good results by combining 1 part each of soil, sand, peat moss, and perlite.
52
This mixture is good for both indoor and outdoor herb planting.
53
If you're using garden soil and compost, you'll want to make sure the mix is sterile.
54
Bake it in a 160� to 180� F (71� to 82� C) oven for about 2 hours.
55
Once again, the smell will be strong.
56
If you want to prevent damping-off disease without sterilization, you can saturate the planting mix with a solution of commercially prepared fungicide.
57
Store the mix in an airtight glass jar.
58
When you need a solution, dissolve 2/3 ounce of the mixture in a little hot water.
59
Then add enough cold water to make 1 gallon.
60
Store the solution in a plastic or porcelain container (not a metal one) and use it immediately.
61
Providing seed flats with proper drainage
62
Keeping flats in a place that is low in humidity and has good ventilation
63
Sowing seeds sparsely, so they aren't crowded
64
Once you've filled your planting container with potting soil, tamp it down gently to 1/2 inch below the top of the flat or pot and water it well.
65
[Insert Pic p022 + p023]
66
The best way to water newly sown seeds without disturbing them is to place the planting containers in a tray of water.
67
Allow them to soak until you see that the top surface is thoroughly wet.
68
Or you can place an ': incandescent lamp under the flat to warm the bottom, keeping the '` temperature at 70� to 75� F (21� to 24� C).
69
The best place to put flats or pots is in a window in direct sunlight where they'll get heat and light all day.
70
If your window doesn't face due south (or north in the Southern Hemisphere), you'll have to rotate the flats and pots to keep the plants growing straight.
71
If the herbs are in a dry place, mist them daily, but be sure you do this early in the day so they dry thoroughly before the lights go off or the sun goes down.
72
Otherwise, they may develop fungus disease.
73
A few days before the transplanting, place them outside in a warm, sunny, and protected spot.
74
After a few days of hardening, your plants should be acclimatized and ready for outdoor planting.
75
Transplant on a mild, overcast day or just before sunset, when the sun will not beat on the relocated plants.
76
The dark and dew of night helps them recover before morning.
77
If you must transplant on a sunny day, be sure to protect the transplants from excess heat and light by constructing a cheesecloth umbrella suspended on stakes, or by pushing a shingle, floor tile, or leafy twig into the soil on the sunny side of the plants to shelter them.
78
If you've planted in peat pots, you can place each seedling in its hole, pot and all.
79
Expanding roots will grow through the disintegrating pot.
80
[Insert Pic p024 + p025]
81
Keep transplanted seedlings well watered, making sure you don't uncover the roots or knock them over with too heavy a spray.
82
If you're transplanting nursery plants, try to transfer all the planting mixture surrounding the roots to the transplant hole without disturbing the plant.
83
If the soil around them is too moist, it's likely to crumble when you try to remove the plant from its container.
84
If it's drier, it will usually stick to the plant roots and come out in one mass.
85
If soil does fall off the roots, or if the growing mixture hasn't adhered to the roots, spread the roots in the planting hole gently so they're not in one clumped mass.
86
Then carefully firm soil around the plants and water them well.
87
If soil in the transplant hole isn't the right mix, dig a much larger hole-one big enough to hold the root system of the herb when it reaches maturity.
88
Then replace the soil that was in the hole with the proper planting mix.
89
[Insert Pic p026]
90
When transplanting, don't rely on memory to tell you where you put each plant.
91
When planning your garden, group herbs that require lots of water in one spot so that they can be sprinkled or soaked at the same time.
92
You can cut down on watering if you spread 1 or 2 inches of mulch around your herbs, tapering off to about 1/z inch near the stems.
93
Actually, it is a natural process, millions of years old.
94
As leaves fall to the forest floor, they protect smaller plants during severe weather, and as they decompose, they form soil-enriching compost.
95
If the mulch is organic, it gradually decomposes into the earth's top layer, boosting soil fertility by providing helpful microorganisms.
96
Perennials growing in severe climates benefit from heavier mulching at the end of the growing season, which protects them from extreme cold winter temperatures and keeps their root systems from drying out.
97
Popular mulches for the herb garden include freshly cut grass, chopped hay or straw, chopped seaweed, cocoa hulls, wood chips, and pine needles. (Grass should be piled on in many thin layers, rather than all at once, to prevent rotting, which attracts insects.) Most gardeners have favorite mulches, depending on personal preference and availability.
98
Some mulches cause soil acidity-a "no-no" for most herbs.
99
If pests do become a problem, you should avoid chemical pesticides especially since you will be ingesting the teas made from the leaves, roots, flowers, or seeds.
100
If you're gathering your own seeds from plants you or friends have grown, snip off the seed heads into a paper bag.
101
If the seeds are dry and fine, shake them from their pods and plant them immediately; or store them in a clean, dry place, wait a few days or months, and plant them so they'll emerge at a time you would prefer.
102
To reproduce by cuttings, cut off 3- to 6-inch plant tips from healthy, well-established plants during the active growing season.
103
Cut each stem sharply and cleanly just below a leaf bud, using a razor blade, sharp knife, or shears (a scissors pinches the stem end, impeding root formation).
104
Make sure the cut is clean, straight across or on a slight angle.
105
Make your own choice.
106
[Insert Pic p030]
107
Once you've placed the stems in the cutting mixture, do not allow them to become dry or wilted.
108
Some gardeners place a plastic bag over the cutting container to ensure that stems will remain moist.
109
Unless the plastic is removed regularly to admit fresh air, however, there s a danger that molds will form.
110
Set the cutting container in a place where it will get good indirect light-not direct sunlight.
111
Lemon balm and thyme will probably form roots in 4 to 6 weeks, but herbs with woodier stems (rosemary, tarragon, and lavender) may take several months.
112
When transplanting, try to keep as much of the propagating mix around the roots as you can.
113
Three to 5 weeks after you've transplanted, when the plants are 3 to 4 inches high, pinch off the top center of the young herbs to encourage bushing out.
114
Cuttings from these can create new plants.
115
Discard the tapering ends of the root, and cut the remainder into 1- to 3-inch lengths, so that each piece includes some of the fleshy root and a bud.
116
Cover them with about 1/z inch of additional cutting mixture, and water the flat thoroughly.
117
Then cover the container with a piece of glass or newspaper, place it in a shady place, and keep the cuttings moist.
118
Remove the covering when leaves appear.
119
Once growth is established, transplant each cutting into a small pot.
120
If leaf growth is heavy, remove most of it before replanting, allowing only one or two small center leaves to remain.
121
In cool regions, you can take root cuttings in fall and store the cutting container on a sheltered porch or in a cold frame outdoors.
122
Be sure to keep the container well watered.
123
[Insert Pic p032 + p033]
124
Layering is often easier than making cuttings.
125
Many herbs, such as sage and tarragon, will layer themselves outdoors when a stem falls over, touches the ground, and sends down roots.
126
You can layer perennials yourself if you want extra plants.
127
Look for a leaf node about 1 foot from the stem tip, and make a small slanting cut just below the leaf node, cutting about halfway through the stem or branch.
128
You can also scrape away the outer layer of bark from a short section of stem or branch without cutting into it and dust the cut or stripped section with hormone rooting powder.
129
This "wounding" method is better for thin stems.
130
Figure out where the cut or stripped section will touch the soil, and dig a shallow depression there.
131
Mix the soil you remove from this hole with equal parts of peat moss, ground bark, or sand, and put some of this mixture in the bottom of the hole.
132
Then bend the cut or stripped branch down into the hole, anchoring it in place with a heavy wire loop or staple.
133
Water and then add a mulch of leaves or compost.
134
If you're preparing good-sized branches for layering, you may place a brick or stone on top of the mound so that the treated portion cannot become dislodged.
135
Roots usually form in about 6 weeks.
136
Check them by carefully removing the soil and tugging on the stem or branch.
137
If roots are well established, you can sever the stem or branch from the parent plant and transplant your new herb.
138
If you're layering in the spring, use growth from the previous year If you're propagating by layering in midsummer, use new growth rather than the previous year's older wood.
139
Summer growth is usually easier to layer because it's more pliable.
140
Plants that are processed in late summer or fall should he left in place until the following spring, then severed from their parent-plant and transplanted.
141
Mound layering is another way to layer bushy perennial herbs, especially if they branch out from a tight root base.
142
Make sure the branches are kept covered with moist earth.
143
When you dig up the plant in late spring, you'll find that root have formed all over the buried branches.
144
Cut each leafed branch below the new root formation and-presto-instant new plant!
145
Perennial herbs with root systems that spread each year and send u}1 new growth are a constant source of new plants.
146
Angelica, bee balm (bergamot), catnip, oregano, coltsfoot, thyme, and many other herbs are easy to propagate in this fashion once a parent plant has become established and started to spread.
147
[Insert Pic p034 + p035]
148
If an herb is spreading beyond where you want it to go, you can create new plants and thin the old one at the same time.
149
Then pull the plant apart or cut off the younger plant growth that has formed around the outside.
150
Discard the older, woodier central growth.
151
Surround the transplants with firmed earth to prevent air pockets.
152
Trim some leaves and stems off the new plants to avoid excessive loss of moisture while they re-establish themselves, and if the roots are long and bushy, trim them to encourage new growth.
153
Once planted, the herbs should be well watered until the plants have recovered.
154
If you don�t want to disturb the parent plant, but lots of new growth has formed around the core, drive a spade straight down into a portion of the new growth and separate it from the parent plant.
155
Fill the hole you create by removing the spreading root section, tamp it, and water the parent plant well.
156
[Insert Pic p036]
157
Root divisions can be made in the spring, before new growth has become so established that leaf damage caused by handling the plant will affect its appearance during the growing season.
158
If you wish to propagate this type of herb, it's easy to help nature a little.
159
Before you begin planting, however, consider these basic guidelines to reduce the chance of failure and to get more interesting results
160
If you have several types of soil in different areas of your garden, try to match the needs of the herbs to the soil conditions.
161
Make sure all herbs are easy to reach so you can tend and harvest them without trouble.
162
Keep the beds narrow, or create paths through wide beds, so you can gain access to the herbs from behind.
163
Place herbs that thrive in direct sunlight in an area of the garden that gets sunlight all day.
164
If possible, plant perennials in one area, biennials and annuals in another so as not to disturb the roots of permanently sited plants when you're planting herbs that last only one or two seasons.
165
Plant herbs that tend to spread in areas where they won't smother slower-growing, delicate varieties.
166
If space is limited, you can keep spreaders from going wild by sinking wooden or plastic barriers below ground to contain the roots.
167
Consider the best use or uses for each herb.
168
Creepers can be used as ground cover or perhaps in a rock garden.
169
Finally, consider the overall ambience of your herb garden.
170
Try to visualize how it will look throughout the growing season, including blooming patterns and bare spots created by early harvesting.
171
Think about how to get more than one crop in a season.
172
Make a continual analysis of the appearance and usefulness of the plants in relation to their growth patterns.
173
When plotting your garden, consult the compendium of herbs and the quick reference chart in this book.
174
HERBAL TEAS THAT GROW IN SHADE OR PARTIAL SHADE
175
HERBAL TEAS THAT GROW IN MOIST PLACES
176
HERBAL TEAS THAT GROW IN DRY PLACES
177
[Insert Pic p040 + p041]
178
HERBAL TEAS FOR HEDGES: Basil, hyssop, lavender, rosemary, sage.
179
HERBAL TEAS FOR GROUND COVER: Sun: Caraway, chamomile, coltsfoot, thyme; shade or partial shade: Speedwell, wintergreen, woodruff.
180
BLUE: Borage, flax, hyssop, speedwell.
181
GREEN: Nettle, sarsaparilla.
182
PURPLISH-PINK: Oregano.
183
REDDISH-BROWN: Chrysanthemum varieties, mugwort.
184
REDDISH-PINK: Bee balm (bergamot), chrysanthemum varieties, fraxinella, hollyhock, marjoram, red clover.
185
REDDISH-PURPLE: Betony, burnet, mint.
186
VIOLET: Savory.
187
YELLOW-GREEN: Hop, parsley, sassafras.
188
If space permits, leave one area of the garden for reserve plants-cuttings or seedlings that are left over after you've transplanted into the garden proper.
189
If you're planning a geometric garden, mark it for planting after you've prepared the soil and edged the bed.
190
Formal, geometrically arranged gardens gain interest if they are placed so the pattern can be seen from above (from the top of a rise, for example).
191
In a formal garden, the plants that delineate the design line should be small, slow-growing herbs that hold their shape.
192
They must, of course, be trimmed and weeded regularly.
193
Protecting your herb garden in winter
194
If you live in an area where winters are severe, you'll want to provide protection for your perennial herbs.
195
[Insert Pic p043]
196
While sawdust and bark make good winter mulch, they sometimes create a nitrogen deficiency in the soil.
197
You can correct this during the growing season by digging a little fish meal or blood meal into the soil around the plants.
198
Wind can also be a problem.
199
The wind chill factor lowers the effective temperature far below the temperature you see on your thermometer.
200
Scented geraniums need special care.
201
Before the first killing frost, take all the cuttings you need for the following year's plants and place them in a box of clean, sharp, and slightly damp sand (perlite can be added as well).
202
Be sure this planting container is well drained.
203
Label each plant or row of plants, and place the cuttings vertically halfway into the sand (see the discussion of propagation by cuttings in chapter 2).
204
Remove the planting container to the basement or to a sheltered porch, where it will remain cool and dormant until spring, but will not freeze.
205
Then dig up the geraniums you took the cuttings from, shake off excess soil, and place them in brown paper bags.
206
Hang these in the garage or attic.
207
Around March, place these plants in a moist mixture of fertile green loam and peat moss.
208
Keep them in the shade, watering them daily until color returns; then move them into sunlight.
209
When danger of frost is past, you can plant them outdoors once again, along with the new plants that have resulted from your cuttings.
210
When planning your indoor garden, choose a spot where the plants will get plenty of sun-ideally a window that gets direct sunlight.
211
If you have a sun room, porch, or garden room, you're all set.
212
If you don't, you may have to use artificial plant lights, giving seedlings and plants from 12 to 16 hours of artificial light each day. (See chapter 2 for more information on starting seeds and providing artificial light.)
213
Root rot is caused by too much water.
214
If you use plastic pots, you should water less.
215
A good rule of thumb is to water regularly during warm spells, but if the air indoors is cool, wait until the surface of the soil becomes dry.
216
The water should be at room temperature.
217
Some herbs consume more water than others.
218
Learn their habits, and water accordingly.
219
Make sure indoor potting soil is porous and crumbly and provides good drainage.
220
Then they add the nutrients needed by individual plants.
221
Perhaps the plant is getting too much heat, or soil temperatures may be fluctuating too much.
222
If developing leaves turn yellow, there may not be enough acidity in the soil.
223
If leaves develop brown or silvery streaks, the plant may be getting too much sun.
224
Lifeless-looking leaves may be the result of too little water.
225
If an herb isn't blooming when it should, it's probably not getting enough sun.
226
If stems turn soft, the herb isn't getting enough sun, and it's probably also getting too much water.
227
But if fungus develops, treat it immediately.
228
Otherwise the spores will spread from one plant to another via whatever insects are on the plant.
229
If you're starting plants from seed, do as you would if you were planning to put them outdoors eventually (see chapter 2), but instead transplant them to larger pots after they've developed nicely.
230
If you're buying nursery plants, keep them isolated from your other plants for a few days, until you've determined that they're healthy.
231
Then you can let them get acquainted with the other herbs.
232
Keep plants trimmed, not only so you can enjoy herbal teas, but also because shaping and trimming encourages them to become bushier, giving a better appearance and producing a better tea crop.
233
Use scissors or shears when gathering herb leaves, petals, or flowers, rather than picking them with your fingers.
234
This helps assure clean clusters, free of adhering pieces of root.
235
If you harvest from a smaller plant, keep at least two sets of leaves at the base of each stem so the plant will continue growing.
236
By "pruning" this way, you can obtain two or three crops of leaves in a single season.
237
When cutting leafy herbs-basil, savory, chervil, and marjoram the best time of the growth cycle is just before the blossoms form, when the greatest abundance of natural oils is concentrated in the leaves.
238
After blooming, some leaf varieties change color.
239
Of course, you can cut leaves after the herbs have bloomed, but the color, flavor, and texture of the leaves will be less perfect.
240
If you plan to use fresh herbs, cut off dead and imperfect leaves.
241
Remove stems wherever possible, and pop the leaves into a teapot.
242
For such plants, an excellent alternative method of preservation is freezing.
243
Before freezing, the herbs should be washed and patted dry with towels.
244
Freeze them whole or chopped, without blanching.
245
Be sure to mark each bag for later identification.
246
When you're ready to brew herbal tea, mince the frozen herbs on a chopping board.
247
Once picked, the faster herbs are processed the better.
248
This will ensure maximum flavor.
249
And this rule extends throughout their storage time.
250
If you're drying small-leaved herbs-thyme, savory, and tarragon, pick branches instead of leaves and dry them in bundles.
251
Be sure each leaf is perfect, without spots or blemishes.
252
Once gathered, the leaves should be washed quickly in cool water to remove any trace of dust and insects.
253
Gently towel-dry the leaves after washing.
254
To dry herbs quickly, spread the leaves or branches on a mesh rack and place the rack in a slow oven, set at 100� to 125� F (38� to 51�C). (Higher temperatures may unfavorably influence the volatile oils in the plants.) Leave the oven door open and stand nearby, because the leaves will be chip-dry in just a few minutes.
255
If you prefer to use a dehydrator, check the herbs frequently to determine how long they should remain in the unit.
256
If you do want to air-dry herbs and have the space, avoid places that could be attacked by insects or rodents.
257
Vermin are especially troublesome in hot climates.
258
In cold climates, mildew is a big danger.
259
In damp weather or cold climates, some artificial heat will probably be necessary to supplement the natural drying process.
260
Keep bunches of basil small to prevent the leaves from turning black.
261
Herbs that dry well on trays, or on brown wrapping paper spread on boards, include chervil, lemon verbena, parsley, thyme, and rosemary.
262
Parsley leaves are so thick that they can be spread only one layer deep.
263
Thyme, however, holds so little moisture that an entire basket may be filled, and it will still dry well in any place that is not damp.
264
Snip off entire seed heads with a shears, dropping them into a paper bag as you go; or cut the whole plant, if you can, and place it, seed heads down, in a paper bag.
265
Puncture holes in the sides and top of the bag, but n.. )Y the bottom.
266
Then hang it in a warm, airy, shady place.
267
Once the plants have dried, the seeds will usually fall to the bottom when you shake the bag.
268
If you discover tiny insects clinging to the seeds after you've gathered them, simply drop the seedheads into boiling water for an instant.
269
Skim off the dead insects on the surface of the water, then drain the seeds.
270
Spread them in a single layer on tightly woven cloth towels, and put them in an airy, shady place to dry.
271
When the seeds have been loosened, pour the through a sieve or colander to separate them from the chaff.
272
Dig or pull up the plant, shake off excess dirt, cut off the part of the plant which was above the soil line, and wash the roots in cool water.
273
Trim off side roots, which dry quickly and give woody fiber but little flavor.
274
That way they'll dry more quickly.
275
If you are air-drying roots, process them as you would leaves.
276
Keep the temperature 100� to 125� F (38� to 51� C) so the volatile oils won't be affected unfavorably.
277
Once you've processed the leaves, flowers, roots, and seeds, you'll want to store them properly to keep them as long as possible without deterioration.
278
If space permits, therefore, store the herbal tea ingredients whole in airtight bottles or metal containers.
279
If that is impossible, break them into smaller pieces, keeping in mind that the smaller the pieces, the more likely it is that aromatic oils may escape.
280
Once the leaves are thoroughly dry, they must be stored immediately to preserve the essential oil that determines flavor.
281
Jars or cans should be stored in a cool, dry, and dark place.
282
Watch containers carefully for signs of condensation.
283
If moisture appears, empty the containers at once and dry them and the herbs to prevent mold from forming.
284
When you're ready to use herbal leaves, break them without powdering them in order to release the maximum amount of oils.
285
Most infusers come in two sizes-one-to-two cup or six-to-eight cup.
286
If you prefer, you can place loose ingredients into the teapot, add boiling water, and pour through a strainer to keep tea ingredients out of each cup.
287
Some teapots have strainers built in over the base of the spout, so you can use loose ingredients and the pot will strain the tea as you pour.
288
Avoid tin or aluminium pots-they tend to impart a metallic taste to the tea-and never heat a teapot directly on the stove.
289
Infusion of leaves, petals, or flowers
290
To infuse tea, rinse the teapot with boiling water (to heat it) and dry it thoroughly.
291
Place tea in the pot, either loose or in its infuser, pour boiling water over the tea, and allow the mixture to steep for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the delicate flavors are released.
292
Then strain and serve.
293
You may add or subtract herbs according to your personal preference.
294
If you're using freshly picked herbs, bruise the leaves gently by crushing them in a clean cloth. This will help to release aromatic oils.
295
If the herbs are allowed to sit, use boiling water to warm up the cold tea and/or dilute it if it has become too strong.
296
Bring water to a boil in an enamelled pan placed over a high heat.
297
Add the seeds, reduce the temperature, and allow the mixture to simmer gently for 5 to 10 minutes.
298
Then quickly strain the tea and serve it.
299
Seeds should be well crushed to bring out their oils.
300
A mortar and pestle do the job nicely, or you can wrap the seeds in a clean cloth and crush them with a wooden mallet or rolling pin.
301
Add the powdered, ground, or crushed dried root to boiling water, reduce the temperature, and simmer for as long as it takes to brew the tea to your taste.
302
Remove the root at this time.
303
To make iced teas, prepare them as outlined above, then cool them in the refrigerator.
304
Herbal tea concentrate for a crowd
305
If you want to make leaf, flower, or petal tea for a crowd, you can make a concentrate in advance, then dilute it when you're ready to serve.
306
For hundreds of years, American Indians have used the sun as a source of heat to brew herbal beverages without boiling away the natural flavor.
307
The sun's infrared and ultraviolet rays heat the water but keep it below the boiling point.
308
This method also saves energy.
309
Take a large glass bottle, preferably one with a glass cover that enables the sun's rays to reach the contents easily (an old-fashioned canning jar works well).
310
Fill the jar with water, and add tea leaves.
311
Set the jar in the sun for 3 to 6 hours, depending on the intensity of the rays (affected by time of day) and the time of year.
312
Remove tea residue from the water as soon as you bring the jar in from the sun.
313
You may not be ambitious enough to blend twenty-five or thirty herbs and spices as commercial herbal tea packagers often do.
314
Today, if you'd like to mix elaborate blends and store them in bags for convenient use, you can buy empty bags that are sealed with a hot iron after you've doled out 1 teaspoon of your magic mixtures for each cup of tea.
315
Other two-herb blends which have stood the test of time include
316
If you'd like to experiment with these blends but don't have all the ingredients, you might consider buying loose dried herbs and testing them before you decide whether to include them in your garden.
317
Or buy those that won't grow in your area and combine them with those you can grow.
318
Another good tea, which combines fruity and woodsy tastes, is this
319
I part strawberry leaves; I part blackberry leaves; I part woodruff
320
Add a touch of cinnamon to give a spicy accent.
321
Toby Chamberlain of California, a distributor of little vellum tea bags for herbal enthusiasts who grow and package their own teas, recommends this blend
322
For a minty and sweet multi-herb blend combine these
323
Infuse in boiling water, let stand a few minutes, then enjoy.
324
A multi-herb blend with a citrus-like taste, this tea is especially refreshing when you add a touch of dried orange peel
325
Infuse to taste.
326
Here's another blend that is found in old-time herbals
327
Infuse. Sweeten this one with honey or sugar.
328
To experience an old-fashioned root beer taste, try this combination
329
Grind the bark and roots. Add the wintergreen, and steep for 10 minutes in boiling water. Sweeten with honey or sugar.
330
Herbal teas with spices, fruit, and liquors
331
Cloves and rose hips give a slightly bitter taste to this blend
332
Infuse in 2 cups of boiling water, and steep for 10 minutes. Sweeten with honey or, for a tangier tea, add lemon juice.
333
Simple, sweet, and lemony, this blend is very soothing
334
Mix the ingredients, and infuse 1 teaspoon of the blend for each cup of boiling water.
335
I tsp. valerian root; I pinch of mace
336
Infuse to taste in 1 cup of boiling water.
337
A combination that's good when flavored with orange peel is this blend
338
I tsp. wood betony; I tsp. dandelion leaves; I clove
339
Infuse in 2 cups of boiling water.
340
Dandelion tea becomes a tasty wine with this recipe
341
Use only fresh dandelion blossoms from which you have removed all stems otherwise the wine will be bitter.
342
Slice the oranges and lemon.
343
Place dandelion heads, water, oranges, lemon, and ginger (crushed and tied in a muslin bag) in a pan, and bring the mixture to a boil.
344
Boil for 20 minutes.
345
Strain and add the sugar.
346
If the mixture isn't clear, add the white of an egg.
347
Place the yeast into the mixture, and let set for a week.
348
Let this blend stand for 6 months before using.
349
If you start elderflower wine today, you can enjoy it 6 months from now
350
Boil the water and sugar together, then pour over the blossoms.
351
Allow to cool, then add lemon juice and yeast.
352
Put the mixture into a crock, and let it stand 9 days.
353
Strain through cheesecloth, and add the raisins.
354
Put the mix back into the crock, and allow it to stand for 6 months.
355
Then strain and bottle.
356
Honey and mint give a sweet, cool taste to this combination
357
Infuse in 2 cups of boiling water.
358
Bee balm makes this blend aromatic and tasty
359
Infuse 1 teaspoon of mixture to each cup of boiling water.
360
Infuse. This blend is particularly good when iced.
361
Here are two favorite punches made from herbal teas
362
Pour 2 quarts of boiling water over 2 big handfuls of fresh lemon balm leaves.
363
Allow to steep for 20 minutes, then strain.
364
Add 2 tablespoons of honey and allow the mixture to cool.
365
Just before serving, add ice and 1 quart of ginger ale.
366
Float sprays of mint on top.
367
Serves about 15.
368
When it comes to brewing individual teas, there are also differences of opinion.
369
PLANT: A hardy perennial.
370
Small yellow flowers bloom at the top of the stem from June to September, and the fruiting flower tubes have hooked bristles.
371
HEIGHT: To 5 feet, usually about 3 feet.
372
SOIL: Well-drained, ordinary soil on the dry side.
373
EXPOSURE: Full sun or light shade.
374
CARE: Space mature plants 7 to 10 inches apart.
375
TASTE: Reminiscent of apricots. Good when flavored with licorice or honey.
376
Oblong leaflets grow in groups of three around the stem.
377
The plant is found on the borders of fields and in low valleys, and it is widely cultivated for fodder and as a soil builder (it increases the nitrogen content of the soil with the help of nitrogen fixing bacteria, which enter the root hairs and form nodules that nurture the plant and surrounding soil).
378
Spirally coiled seed pods follow.
379
HEIGHT: 1 to 3 feet.
380
SOIL: Well-drained soil of reasonably good fertility, slightly acid.
381
EXPOSURE: Full or partial sun.
382
CARE: Space plants 8 to 10 inches apart.
383
Make sure there is no hardpan or underlying rock layer where you plant it, because alfalfa sends its roots down deep.
384
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves and seeds.
385
TASTE: Bland, tastes like newly mown hay. It is usually blended with mint, lemon verbena, red clover, or honey.
386
Reduce temperature and allow mixture to simmer gently for 5 to 10 minutes.
387
The stem is round, hollow, and grooved, branching near the top, where it is tinged with blue.
388
Leaves grow from dilated sheaths that surround the stem.
389
HEIGHT: 4 t0 6 feet.
390
SOIL: Moist, rich soil, slightly acid.
391
EXPOSURE: Preferably partial shade.
392
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves, seeds, sometimes roots.
393
TASTE: Resembles China tea in flavor, with a slight celery taste.
394
If seeds or roots are used, they're often boiled along with juniper berries.
395
Leaf tea is good with honey or lemon.
396
HEIGHT: 2 feet.
397
SOIL: Light, fairly well-worked soil, enriched with compost.
398
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
399
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves and seeds.
400
TASTE: Aromatic and sweet with a licorice-like taste. Good brewed with warm milk and drunk just before going to bed.
401
Reduce temperature and allow mixture to simmer gently for 5 to 10 minutes.
402
HEIGHT: 1 I/z to 4 feet.
403
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
404
PROPAGATION: By root division or cuttings in spring or fall.
405
CARE: Space mature plants 18 inches apart.
406
Keep weeded.
407
If plants spread out too much, shear them back to contain them.
408
Small plants can be transplanted.
409
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
410
TASTE: Lemony, refreshing.
411
HEIGHT: 1 to 2 feet.
412
SOIL: Moderately rich, moist, well-composted.
413
EXPOSURE: Full sun or semi-shade.
414
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
415
TASTE: Spicy, clove-like flavor.
416
SOIL: Sandy, well-drained.
417
EXPOSURE: Full sun or partial shade. Protect from cold winds.
418
PROPAGATION: By stem cuttings.
419
Take 3- to 4-inch-long shoots of half-ripened stems, and place them in soil of sand and peat moss in a shady place outdoors.
420
Or, shoots may be layered.
421
Allow 6 months or more for rooting.
422
CARE: If using as a bush outdoors, place plants 4 feet apart, and prune to desired height.
423
Bay grows very slowly, so bay trees are seldom inexpensive.
424
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
425
TASTE: Pungent, almost bitter.
426
Can be sweetened with honey.
427
HEIGHT: I to 3 feet.
428
SOIL: Moist, swamp-type soil; moderately acid.
429
EXPOSURE: Full sun or partial shade.
430
CARE: Mature plants should be spaced 18 inches apart.
431
Plants spread quickly so they should be taken up every 3 years, divided, and reset.
432
Replant only the outside, newer roots; discard exhausted central plants.
433
In successive years, cut back the plant after it blooms, and it will flower again in early autumn.
434
Late in autumn, cut down the stalks, and cover the roots with enriched soil.
435
TASTE: Aromatic, minty.
436
Strain.
437
Add honey to flavor.
438
PLANT: Hardy perennial.
439
The hairy, unbranched, or slightly branched stems have opposite leaves that are oblong at the bottom of the plant and lance-shaped closer to the top.
440
Whorls of red-purple flowers bloom from July to August.
441
The plant has a musky odor.
442
HEIGHT: 8 to 24 inches.
443
SOIL: Deep, fertile, well-drained. Moderately moist.
444
EXPOSURE: Full sun or partial shade.
445
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
446
TASTE: Pleasant, warm, astringent. Slightly bitter, so you may want to sweeten with honey.
447
HEIGHT: To 60 feet. It is a slow grower.
448
SOIL: Dry or moist sandy soil.
449
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
450
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves, twigs, or bark.
451
TASTE: Like wintergreen in flavor, very aromatic. Birch tea can be sweetened with honey.
452
Others feel it helps to purify offensive saliva, cool the blood, and cure anemia and general debility.
453
SOIL: Dry, sandy.
454
EXPOSURE: Direct sun, or partial shade.
455
In northern areas protect with leaves or soil in cold weather.
456
Keep well pruned for good berry yield and a more compact plant.
457
Rubus flowers appear on the wood of second-year growth. (First-year stems are sterile.) Remove old canes after the fruit has been harvested.
458
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
459
TASTE: Tangy and pleasant with a cool, refreshing aftertaste.
460
Commonly sweetened with honey.
461
Borage grows wild in the Mediterranean countries.
462
Astrologers place borage under Jupiter's realm and under the zodiac sign of Leo, the lion.
463
HEIGHT: I to 3 feet.
464
SOIL: Dry, somewhat poor.
465
EXPOSURE: Sun or filtered shade.
466
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves, flowers.
467
TASTE: Pleasant, cucumber-like. Some say it is cooling, others that it's spicy hot. Try it yourself to judge.
468
Burnet (Sanguisorba minor or Poterium sanguisorba)
469
HEIGHT: 1 to 2 feet.
470
SOIL: Average, well-drained, sandy or chalky.
471
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
472
Germination is slow.
473
The plant self-sows freely, and seedlings can be moved when small.
474
Once established, burnet can also be propagated by root division.
475
CARE: Place plants 12 inches apart.
476
They make an attractive ground cover, and continue to supply greens if the flower stems and leaves are continually cut back.
477
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
478
TASTE: Cucumber-like (similar to borage) if fresh, new leaves are used; less cucumber-like and nuttier if leaves have been dried.
479
HEIGHT: 2 feet.
480
SOIL: Neutral, well-drained.
481
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
482
PART USED FOR TEA: Seeds.
483
TASTE: Warm, sweet, biting.
484
Boil briefly, then cover and steep for 10 minutes.
485
Strain.
486
HEIGHT: 2 to 3 feet.
487
SOIL: Moist, rich.
488
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
489
CARE: Thin plants to 12 inches apart.
490
They tend to become scraggly, so cut back after they flower to keep them looking neat, and to prevent them from spreading.
491
If there are cats around, you'll want to protect young seedlings until they are large enough to resist damage by enthusiastic felines who roll in and eat them.
492
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
493
TASTE: Aromatic, minty.
494
PLANT: Perennial, hardy to - 26�F ( - 29�C).
495
An evergreen, its aromatic leaves are light, bright green, and finely cut.
496
HEIGHT: 3 to 12 inches.
497
SOIL: Moist, well-drained soil.
498
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
499
Chamomile is a creeping herb, and the stems root themselves as they spread.
500
When mowed, chamomile makes a good lawn substitute.
501
It can also be used as a ground cover.
502
PART USED FOR TEA: Flowers.
503
TASTE: Light, apple-like.
504
SOIL: Sandy, well-drained, rich.
505
EXPOSURE: Full or partial sun.
506
PROPAGATION: Sow seed indoors, and place seedlings outside when danger of frost has passed.
507
Root divisions in spring.
508
The soil around roots should be firm.
509
This promotes bushiness and flowering.
510
Also, watch out for nematodes.
511
Cut the plants down to 9 inches after they have flowered.
512
Fertilize with manure from time to time.
513
TASTE: Tangy, aromatic, similar to the taste of artichoke hearts. Sweeten with honey or sugar.
514
PLANT: Hardy perennial, to - 20�F (- 29�C).
515
The long, thick roots send up lacy, delicate, green leaves with finely cut pairs of leaflets resembling those of a fern or tansy.
516
HEIGHT: 2 to 3 feet.
517
SOIL: Rich, moist, well-drained.
518
EXPOSURE: Shade or partial shade.
519
Christians thought the three-part leaf a symbol of the Trinity and designed many of their churches and church windows in that shape.
520
The blossoms are believed to be a cough remedy.
521
Clover is found throughout meadows all over North America and Europe.
522
HEIGHT: To 2 feet.
523
SOIL: Moderate fertility. Neutral or alkaline.
524
EXPOSURE: Sun.
525
Clover is often used as a cover crop by farmers, so seeds can usually be found through farm seed-supply stores.
526
TASTE: Delicate, sweet.
527
How to brew By INFUSION: Add 1 teaspoonful of the dried flowering tops, cut small, to 1 cup of boiling water.
528
Steep to taste.
529
HEIGHT: Less than 1 foot.
530
SOIL: Damp, limy.
531
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
532
CARE: Space mature plants 6 to 8 inches apart, but watch them, or they'll spread widely.
533
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves and flowers.
534
TASTE: Fragrant, strong, somewhat like sweet potatoes.
535
HEIGHT: To 3 feet.
536
SOIL: Moist, any type.
537
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
538
HEIGHT: Less than 1 foot.
539
SOIL: Dry or wet, poor or rich (to the gardener's dismay).
540
EXPOSURE: Sun, partial shade, or shade.
541
TASTE: The leaf has a robust, grassy aroma and a bland taste. It is good when blended with mint, or when served cold.
542
HEIGHT: 3 to 4 feet.
543
SOIL: Average, well-drained.
544
TASTE: Seed tea-sharp, pungent; leaf tea-milder.
545
HEIGHT: 10 to 30 feet.
546
SOIL: Fertile, damp.
547
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
548
CARE: Rampant and fast growing, the elder can become wild looking if not pruned every dormant season to keep it dense and shrubby.
549
New growths sprout readily from the stumps.
550
PART USED FOR TEA: Flowerheads.
551
TASTE: Sweet, honey flavored. Often combined with Thea sinensis, peppermint, yarrow, or other herbs.
552
HEIGHT: To 5 feet.
553
SOIL: Light, well-drained, good garden soil, preferably lime-rich.
554
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
555
TASTE: Delightful, reminiscent of anise, peppermint, and licorice.
556
Reduce temperature, and allow mixture to simmer gently for 5 to 10 minutes.
557
HEIGHT: 15 to 18 inches.
558
SOIL: Sandy, dry.
559
EXPOSURE: Direct sunlight.
560
PROPAGATION: By seeds planted during the first or second lunar phase.
561
PART USED FOR TEA: Seeds or leaves.
562
TASTE: Pleasant, bitter, reminiscent of maple and vanilla.
563
HEIGHT: 1 to 2 feet.
564
SOIL: Well-drained alkaline soil, made porous by gravel and rocks.
565
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
566
PART USED FOR TEA: Seed.
567
TASTE: Soothing, gelatinous.
568
HEIGHT: 3 feet.
569
SOIL: Moderately rich, somewhat light soil, deeply dug.
570
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
571
PART USED FOR TEA: Root, leaves, seed.
572
TASTE: The white-flowered variety has a lemony fragrance and taste.
573
PLANT: Very tender perennial.
574
The basic scented geranium is the rose geranium, a large plant with deeply cut gray-green leaves, lavender flowers, and a rose-like fragrance.
575
Others of the more than eighty varieties of pelargonium have their own distinctive leaf shape, scent, and blossoms.
576
SOIL: Well-drained, loose soil.
577
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial sun.
578
PROPAGATION: By cuttings cut straight across the stem and placed in clean, sharp sand.
579
Water sparingly until good green growth shows.
580
Also can be grown from seed.
581
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
582
TASTE: Depends on variety within the family, each of which has its own taste and scent.
583
American Ginseng is occasionally found wild in the rich, cool woodlands of North America.
584
Much ginseng is now grown under cultivation in Wisconsin.
585
Since before 3000 B.
586
C., the Chinese have valued the root as a cure-all.
587
The name ginseng comes from the Chinese jen shen, meaning "man-root," and derives from the root's resemblance to the human shape.
588
PLANT: Perennial.
589
At the top of a simple stem are five oblong, finely serrated leaflets.
590
HEIGHT: Less than 1 foot.
591
EXPOSURE: Shade.
592
PART USED FOR TEA: Root, usually dug in fall.
593
TASTE: Parsnip-like. Bland; sweeten with honey or sugar.
594
Place ginseng root (most are 4 to 6 inches long) and 1 quart of water into a closed glass or earthenware (not metal) container.
595
Place this container into another pot that is also filled with water, and boil the root slowly for 2 to 3 hours, until the water in the outer ginseng pot has been reduced by half.
596
Strain and drink immediately.
597
Use the root several times until you feel it has lost its power.
598
Then place it in a jar of honey for several weeks until you have ginseng honey and a candied root you can chew on, for the last bit of flavor.
599
HEIGHT: 2 t0 4 feet.
600
SOIL: Dry, sandy.
601
EXPOSURE: Full or partial sun.
602
CARE: Space plants 1 foot apart.
603
Goldenrod is easy to find by roadsides and similar environments, and it will transplant well if you choose blooming plants, cut them back, and carefully dig and replant them at that time.
604
Give transplants more fertile soil than you found them in.
605
Divide and replant every 2 or 3 years, so plants don't choke one another out.
606
Soil that's too rich will stunt the plants.
607
Remove faded flowers promptly to prevent too much self-seeding.
608
PART USED FOR TEA: Young leaves and fully opened flowers.
609
TASTE: Anise-like.
610
Steep for at least 10 minutes.
611
Strain and sweeten to taste.
612
HEIGHT: 3 to 15 feet.
613
SOIL: Any well-drained soil, with good lime content.
614
EXPOSURE: Full or partial sun.
615
Slow to germinate.
616
Also stem cuttings.
617
CARE: If you're growing hawthorn as a tree, remove suckers from the trunk and around the base.
618
If you're growing it as a hedge, space plants 3 feet apart, and keep them trimmed.
619
Prune after the hawthorn has flowered.
620
The deciduous hawthorn requires little care, having a naturally dense growth.
621
PART USED FOR TEA: Flowers, berries.
622
TASTE: Flowers are sweet-scented and bland.
623
The berries are tart and fruity (similar to a crab apple).
624
HEIGHT: 2 to 6 feet.
625
SOIL: Loose, loamy soil, kept moist.
626
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
627
In cold-weather areas place outdoors when danger of frost has passed.
628
PART USED FOR TEA: Flowers.
629
TASTE: Tart and slightly lemony. The tea has a pale, ruby color.
630
PLANT: Biennial.
631
Both leaves and flowers cover the length of the tall, hairy unbranched stem.
632
They may have one or two sets of petals.
633
SOIL: Deep, rich, well-drained.
634
CARE: Space mature plants about 2 feet apart.
635
If planted in unprotected spots, stalks should be supported.
636
Plants propagated from self-seeding can be moved to a permanent place in spring.
637
If not being grown as annuals, mound up soil around the plants to prevent winterkill.
638
PART USED FOR TEA: Flowers.
639
TASTE: The whole-flower tea can be tart and bitter. Petal tea, however, is tangy without bitterness, and most refreshing.
640
HEIGHT: To 20 feet.
641
SOIL: Rich, loamy, well-watered. EXPOSURE: Full sun or partial shade.
642
CARE: Space 2 feet apart.
643
Keep sprouting seeds and roots well watered.
644
The vine does well on trellises.
645
Twining stems should be trained by hand in June and July.
646
Cut stems to the ground after frost turns them brown.
647
PART USED FOR TEA: Female flowers (hops), leaves.
648
TASTE: Slightly peppery, yet mild. The tea is light yellow.
649
FLOWERS, BY DECOCTION: Place 1 heaping tablespoon of hops flowers (cones) in 1/z pint of cold water, bring to a simmer for 2 or 3 minutes.
650
Steep well.
651
Strain.
652
Hops quickly lose their effectiveness when stored, so use them fresh.
653
HEIGHT: 1 to 3 feet.
654
SOIL: Sandy, not overly rich; dry and well-drained.
655
EXPOSURE: Sun.
656
CARE: Plants should be placed 12 inches apart.
657
Keep pinched back to prevent weediness, unless you want seeds -then let horehound go to bloom.
658
In autumn, cut off old stalks.
659
TASTE: Bittersweet, musky. Combines nicely with coltsfoot. Usually sweetened with honey or some ground ginger root.
660
HEIGHT: 11/2 to 2 feet.
661
SOIL: Light, dry, well-drained. Preferably alkaline.
662
EXPOSURE: Full or partial sun in sheltered position.
663
CARE: If using as a hedge, space plants 12 inches apart.
664
An almost-evergreen subshrub, hyssop can be trimmed like box, but it will not flower if the tops are cut off.
665
Or you might place a couple of hyssop plants in a general planting area, 2 feet apart, and allow them to grow freely.
666
TASTE: Bitter and minty, with a slight musky odor.
667
By INFUSION: Add 1 teaspoon dried hyssop tops and/or flowers to 1 covered cup of boiling water for 10 minutes, or longer to taste.
668
Strain and sweeten with honey.
669
HEIGHT: To 30 feet in warm climates.
670
SOIL: Moist, well-drained garden soil.
671
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
672
PART USED FOR TEA: Flowers.
673
TASTE: Fragrant, sweet.
674
Juniper is also called Melmot Berries, Horse-Saver, and Bastard-Killer.
675
If you crush a juniper berry, you will smell the odor of gin and, indeed, the making of gin is the main commercial use of this herb.
676
The word gin comes from the French word for juniper, genievre.
677
Juniper is also considered a diuretic.
678
PLANT: Perennial evergreen shrub with many very close branches.
679
The bark is chocolate brown with red tinges.
680
Needles have white stripes on top, and are shiny yellow-green underneath.
681
HEIGHT: 4 to 12 feet. SOIL: Limestone, chalky.
682
EXPOSURE: Sunny.
683
A faster way is to take cuttings in August, 4 to 6 inches long, stripped to 1 inch or so from the butt, and then place them in a shaded cold-frame bed of sand.
684
They will be rooted by the following summer.
685
PART USED FOR TEA: Ripe female berries.
686
TASTE: Spicy, bittersweet, fragrant with an alpine-like tang, similar to that of gin.
687
Labrador Tea (Ledum latifolium or L. groenlandicum)
688
PLANT: Perennial.
689
Rust-colored woolly branches bear aromatic, alternate, folded-back, leathery leaves that are green on top, rust-colored and downy underneath.
690
HEIGHT: 1 to 3 feet.
691
SOIL: Moist, peat-like.
692
EXPOSURE: Partial shade.
693
TASTE: Delicate, fragrant. Similar to China tea.
694
LEAVES, BY DECOCTION: Crush 1 tablespoon of dried leaves, and add to cup of boiling water. Cover and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes.
695
Lavender (Lavandula Vera, L. silica, and other species)
696
HEIGHT: 11/2 to 3 feet.
697
SOIL: Dry, well-drained, chalky. Not too rich.
698
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
699
TASTE: Cooling, sweetly aromatic, exotic flavor.
700
Lemon Verbena (Aloysia triphylla, formerly Lippia citriodora)
701
HEIGHT: To 6 feet under ideal conditions.
702
SOIL: Light, well-drained soil.
703
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
704
PROPAGATION: Seed formation is infrequent, so propagation from cuttings is preferred.
705
Mature plants tend to wilt temporarily after cuttings are made.
706
Once rooted, cuttings are easy to grow and reach maturity in one season.
707
Roots can also be divided in spring.
708
CARE: Space mature plants about 2 feet apart.
709
Bring lemon verbena indoors before the first frost.
710
Once it is inside, feed it well-rotted compost or manure regularly, and mist its leaves with tepid water.
711
If it maintains its leaves, they will probably turn darker green.
712
Cut it back in February, and in spring it will come to life again with luxuriant new foliage.
713
TASTE: Warm, lemony. Often added to black Thea sinensis teas, and also combines nicely with alfalfa.
714
Babies have been given a hard (but not fibrous) piece of washed root to help them cut teeth.
715
Spain is the principal exporter of stick licorice.
716
HEIGHT: 1 to 3 feet.
717
EXPOSURE: Direct sun.
718
CARE: Cut shoots or canes to soil level each year in November.
719
PART USED FOR TEA: Root.
720
TASTE: Sweet, anise-like. Thirst-quenching.
721
Steep, or simmer to taste.
722
Serve hot or cold.
723
Added to other herbal teas, licorice will sweeten the brew naturally.
724
Linden (Tilia europaea and other species)
725
PLANT: Perennial.
726
HEIGHT: 50 t0 100 feet.
727
SOIL: Rich, well-drained, moist.
728
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
729
TASTE: Similar to chamomile, with a sweet, warm, apple like taste. Highly aromatic.
730
Marigold (Tagetes species, also Calendula officinalis)
731
HEIGHT: From 6 inches to 3 feet, depending on variety.
732
SOIL: Not too rich or moist.
733
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
734
TASTE: Slightly bitter and saffron-like. Petal tea is not as bitter. Sweeten with honey to taste.
735
HEIGHT: I to 2 feet.
736
SOIL: Moist, alkaline, light or medium-rich soil.
737
EXPOSURE: Sun, but sheltered.
738
Slow to germinate.
739
Also by root divisions and cuttings in spring.
740
Marjoram is inclined to sprawl and layer itself.
741
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
742
TASTE: Sweet, warm, mellow. A flavor that resembles a blend of thyme, rosemary, and sage.
743
HEIGHT: 5 to 6 feet.
744
SOIL: Rich, moist.
745
EXPOSURE: Partial shade.
746
CARE: Space mature plants 10 to 15 inches apart. Keep moist.
747
TASTE: Sweet and delicate, very aromatic.
748
HEIGHT: From 18 inches to 4 feet, depending on species.
749
SOIL: Moist, rich.
750
EXPOSURE: Partial shade.
751
CARE: Space from 10 to 15 inches apart, depending on variety.
752
Unless you want seeds, keep mint cut back to improve its growth.
753
Keep weeded.
754
Water well, cover with a thin layer of enriched soil, and new plants will soon appear.
755
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
756
TASTE: Clean, refreshing, delicately fruity. Aromatic.
757
A strong tea made from the flowers and top leaves is thought to dissolve gallstones, regulate the menstrual cycle, and promote appetite and digestion-all because of mugwort's beneficial effect on bile production.
758
HEIGHT: 2 to 5 feet.
759
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
760
PROPAGATION: Seeds planted during the third lunar phase. Also root division; mugwort's creeping roots cause it to spread quickly.
761
CARE: Place plants 2 feet apart.
762
Each year, the circle of roots increases, and it is necessary to cut away many roots and seedlings to keep the plant from getting out of control.
763
TASTE: Tangy, refreshing. It was a favorite in England before Oriental tea was introduced.
764
PLANT: A hardy biennial.
765
HEIGHT: To 9 feet.
766
SOIL: Poor, dry.
767
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
768
CARE: Place plants 3 feet apart. Cut the seedheads in fall unless you want the ground matted with seedlings the following spring.
769
PART USED FOR TEA: Flowers, leaves.
770
TASTE: Tea from the flowers is sweet; from the leaves, slightly bitter. Both are highly aromatic.
771
HEIGHT: 1 to 8 feet.
772
SOIL: Rich, moist, full of organic matter.
773
EXPOSURE: Sun.
774
PART USED FOR TEA: Young leaves, dried.
775
TASTE: Bland, but good with a little mint or other sweetener. The tea is light green.
776
PLANT: Hardy perennial; a deciduous shrub.
777
They have alternate, egg-shaped, finely serrated leaves that are dull green on top and finely hairy underneath.
778
HEIGHT: To 3 feet.
779
SOIL: Poor, dry, well-drained.
780
EXPOSURE: Sun.
781
CARE: Place plants 4 feet apart.
782
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
783
TASTE: Similar to Oriental teas made from Thea sinensis.
784
HEIGHT: 2 to 21/2 feet.
785
SOIL: Average, well-drained, limy.
786
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
787
CARE: Space 11/z to 2 feet apart.
788
Keep plants cut back to encourage bushiness and thick foliage.
789
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
790
TASTE: Similar to marjoram, but more intense and stronger in taste and aroma.
791
PLANT: Biennial, usually cultivated as an annual.
792
Tufted, finely cut, bright green leaves with serrated or toothed edges rise from a taproot much like a thin carrot; the plant comes from the same family.
793
HEIGHT: 6 to 12 inches.
794
SOIL: Moist, fairly rich.
795
EXPOSURE: Shade or partial sun.
796
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves harvested before the plants flower.
797
TASTE: Refreshing, with a cooling taste like that of fresh parsley. Rich in vitamins A, B, C, and K.
798
PLANT: Hardy perennial.
799
Tiny lilac-colored flowers appear in whorls from June to October.
800
Pennyroyal makes a good ground cover in moist soils.
801
SOIL: Clay, moist soil.
802
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
803
PART USED FOR TEA: Tops and leaves (before flowering).
804
TASTE: Strongly minty, sweet, aromatic. The tea has an amber color.
805
Raspberry (Rubus strigosus or R. idaeus)
806
HEIGHT: TO 7 feet.
807
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
808
Cut back transplanted plants to 12 inches, and set them 3 inches deeper than they were formerly growing to protect the roots from drought.
809
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
810
TASTE: Astringent, soothing, fruity, and aromatic.
811
SOIL: Most roses require a firm, well-enriched, and well drained soil.
812
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
813
TASTE: Hips-fruity, aromatic, pleasant tasting. Petals -delicate, exotic, fragrant, like sipping a cupful of flowers.
814
HEIGHT: 3 to 6 feet.
815
SOIL: Light, warm, dry, well-drained soil with plenty of lime content.
816
EXPOSURE: Full sun or partial shade, in a sheltered spot.
817
CARE: Space mature plants 3 feet apart.
818
In cool climates, rosemary must be protected with heavy mulch or brought indoors in winter.
819
The roots are tender and mustn't freeze.
820
Rosemary can be grown as a pot plant.
821
The shrub will grow quickly if it is given lime and fertilizer several times a season.
822
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves, flowers.
823
TASTE: Piny and aromatic, like a fine incense. Good in combination with tansy.
824
HEIGHT: 2 to 3 feet.
825
SOIL: Dry, well-drained, sandy or limy soil.
826
EXPOSURE: Full sun or partial shade.
827
CARE: Space plants 18 inches apart.
828
Cut back stems after blooming, and fertilize if you cut the leaves frequently.
829
Over watering can cause mildew.
830
Renew plants every 3 or 4 years, when they become woody.
831
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
832
TASTE: Aromatic, camphor-like, heartening, faintly bitter.
833
Steep for 10 minutes.
834
Strain.
835
Sweeten with honey.
836
HEIGHT: 8 to 12 inches high.
837
SOIL: Moist, loose, well-drained.
838
EXPOSURE Partial shade or shade.
839
Sassafras (Sassafras variifolium or S. albidum)
840
SOIL: Dry or moist sandy loam.
841
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
842
When it is mature, prune only as required for shape.
843
Suckers tend to pop up if roots are cut in cultivating.
844
They should be removed when they appear.
845
This tree has fine autumn coloration.
846
PART USED FOR TEA: Bark of the root; leaves.
847
TASTE: Root-beer flavored.
848
SOIL: Summer savory: rich, dry; winter savory: poor, dry, well-drained, chalky.
849
EXPOSURE: Full sun for both varieties.
850
CARE: Place summer savory plants 6 inches apart; winter savory plants, 1 foot apart.
851
Summer savory is believed to control bean beetles.
852
Keep both varieties weed free, and hill the plants slightly to keep them upright.
853
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves gathered before the plant blooms.
854
TASTE: Tangy, marjoram-like.
855
It makes a good ground cover.
856
SOIL: Dry, almost any kind.
857
EXPOSURE: Sun, partial shade, shade.
858
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves or whole herb.
859
TASTE: Bitter, tangy. It was once a universal substitute for China tea.
860
PLANT: Perennial.
861
Small, white, rose-form flowers with five petals and prominent yellow centers appear in clusters during May and June, followed by the seedy, pea-sized, juicy red fruits.
862
HEIGHT: About 8 inches.
863
SOIL: Well-drained, rich, moist.
864
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
865
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves.
866
TASTE: Cooling, strawberry flavor. Good in combination with woodruff.
867
HEIGHT: 3 feet.
868
SOIL: Any well-drained chalky soil.
869
EXPOSURE: Full Sun.
870
CARE: Space plants 4 feet apart.
871
Cut off dead stems in fall; the plant will reappear in spring.
872
PART USED FOR TEA: Leaves and tops.
873
TASTE: Bitter, lemony. Can be sweetened with honey. Good in combination with rosemary.
874
HEIGHT: 6 to 12 inches.
875
SOIL: Dry, light, limy.
876
EXPOSURE: Full sun.
877
While the flowers of this herb are pleasantly fragrant, the rest of the plant is not.
878
Cats and rats, however, delight in valerian's odor.
879
PLANT: Perennial.
880
Their strong scent is like that of heliotrope.
881
Because of its high phosphorus content, valerian attracts earthworms, making it a favorite plant to place near the vegetable garden.
882
HEIGHT: 4 feet.
883
SOIL: Somewhat heavy, moist, rich.
884
EXPOSURE: Full sun or partial shade.
885
Just press them into the soil, don't cover.
886
They are slow to germinate.
887
Also by root (rhizome) division in spring or fall.
888
CARE: Space plants about 2 feet apart.
889
Because valerian s creeping roots spread quickly, divide the plant every other year.
890
Enrich the soil with manure before replanting.
891
PART USED FOR TEA: Root, harvested in fall.
892
TASTE: Soothing, strongly scented.
893
It should be used sparingly.
894
HEIGHT: 2 to 6 inches.
895
SOIL: Acid, sandy, rich, and well-drained.
896
EXPOSURE: Shade or partial shade.
897
CARE: Wintergreen makes a good ground cover.
898
PART USED FOR TEA: Young leaves.
899
TASTE: Wintergreen flavor, cooling and refreshing.
900
BY INFUSION: Cover 1 teaspoonful of crushed or chopped leaves with 1 cup of boiling water.
901
HEIGHT: 8 to 10 inches.
902
SOIL: Slightly acid, with high humus content, preferably beech-leaf compost. Moist.
903
EXPOSURE: Shade.
904
PART USED FOR TEA: Dried leaves.
905
TASTE: Resembles Darjeeling tea. Mild, sweet, with a woodsy taste. Good in combination with strawberry.
906
PLANT: Perennial, hardy to - 30�F (- 34�C).
907
The creeping rootstock sends up clumps of grayish-green stems, which branch toward the top and bear alternate, feathery, deeply cut leaves.
908
HEIGHT: 3 feet.
909
SOIL: Average or poor. Well-drained. Moderate moisture.
910
EXPOSURE: Sun or partial shade.
911
CARE: Place plants 12 inches apart.
912
If they are cut back after the first flowers fade, they may bloom again in fall.
913
Divide clumps every other year.
914
TASTE: Mildly astringent. Somewhat like a mild sage tea. Pale yellow in color.
915
[Insert Pictures p208, p209, p210, p211]
916
[Insert Pic p216]
917
Sources for seeds, plants, and equipment (removed)
918
End.

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